important: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.

How to Loosen a Stiff Chain Link

Stiff chain links cause noise, shifting problems, and even injury. Watch how to fix it by hand!

A stiff chain link can cause problems with your shifting, and can even cause injury if it slips while you’re pedaling. Here’s how to easily diagnose and fix the problem.

Find the Stiff Link

You’ll know you have a stiff link if your chain skips every 3 or 4 rotations. If you have several stiff links you’ll feel it skip even more often. To find the link, shift down to your smallest rear sprocket and then run the chain backwards through the derailleur by rotating your crank. Keep a close eye on your chain as it rolls over the lower derailleur pulley. When the stiff link passes through you’ll see it jump over the pulley. This means the inner and outer plates of one of your chain links are squished together too tight at the pin.

Loosen by Hand

To fix this by hand, simply work the plates loose by twisting the chain up and down the same way it was meant to. Then point the stiff link upward and firmly grab the closest connecting points on either side. Now twist the chain side to side, the way it was not supposed to bend. If all goes well, your stiff link should now be loosened and you can continue riding.

Loosen with a Chain Tool

If this method doesn’t work, and the link is still stiff, you’ll have to use a chain tool to fix it. Place the stiff link into the chain tool, on the slots closest to the turning handle. Now thread the chain tool’s pin gently against the chain pin about 1/8th of a turn, or just enough to slightly loosen the chain plates. That should loosen it enough.

If you still have problems, the chain may actually be bent and need replacing.

Related Links

Recommended Tools

Categories

Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum

NBD: 1990 Brompton Mk2

Latest post 12 hours ago

Just picked up this little classic 1990 Brompton Mk2 with Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub. Needs some TLC but all the important bits seem to be in reasonable condition with no signs of substantial rust on frame, rear triangle, or hubs. Not only do I look forward to learning The Way of The Brompton, but this means I'll probably be buying more tools. WINNING!   WhatsApp Image 2024-05-11 at 1...

Read more

Check out the work that went into "Jeanne (Robinson) Omelenchuk’s custom 1960 road racing bike" here: http://classiccycleus.com/home/repair/museum-bikes-1945-to-1979/ To whit: "George cast the aluminum hub shells himself, producing hubs that were extremely wide by the standards of the day (heck, they’re wide by today’s standards, and we pack 11 cogs onto modern rear hubs). The rims were dra...

Read more

Was given a 2013 GT Karakoram 4.0. Fork moves fairly well but starting to squeak and needs service. MLO works. How do I take apart the MLO side? Lots of videos show the SR Suntour xct with a smooth blue lockout cap. It has a lockring and you have to pry it up evenly Not sure if this one is also a pry up. The notches look the same on both sides. Wrench fits on the spring/preload side and unscrews...

Read more

Hi, I am new to working on bicycle gears and am hoping to get some help determining if my new shifter has failed or if I just need to make some more adjustments. On the left side shifter, I am able to shift easily from 1st to 2nd, but when I tried to get it to go to 3rd, the chain would go up, but the shifter wouldn't lock into place. It would be great thumb exercise, but I prefer to fix it. I...

Read more

I'm slowly eliminated all LBSes in my area as options for servicing, LOL. The latest one has been struck off my list after watching, pained, their approach to removing the axle end caps from a hub with cartridge bearings. Suffice to say, I finally ordered a blind bearing puller kit and a bearing press kit. If you want something done properly, you have to do it yourself! Have you bought any nic...

Read more

Rear hub issue

Latest post 2 weeks ago

I have a 10-year-old 105 rear hub, and one of the pawls is acting up, I cleaned it and relubed the hub pawls but it still won't engage as fast as it did, like one of the pawls isn't working. I think it might be time to get a new hub. I would like one that engages faster but don't want to spend the money for something like the DT Swiss hub, what recommendations do any of you have for a hub? Or i...

Read more

Headset overtightening

Latest post 2 weeks ago

I have a Fondriest and could not get the headset to tighten without over tightening and then it will not steer properly because of heavy drag on the bars. I replaced the headset with no change so I replaced the steel fork with s Hylix carbon fiber bar and another new heatset and pinch steering head lock. Still it wont adjust properly. it acts as if the bottom headset bearing is too deep in the cup...

Read more

Hello I have recently pulled my 2005 specialized expedition out of the garage. It's in need of some repair due to it being damaged by super storm sandy. My shed was flooded with ocean water. The frame itself looks perfect but the moving parts have some rust. Including the fork, brakes, and gears. I'm just looking for replacement parts I have no intentions on buying a new bike. Please help than...

Read more

Tyres keep popping off wheels...

Latest post 4 weeks ago

Hello guys Just bought a new pair of 700c hybrid wheelset with an inside rim width of 19mm. I have tried to fit schwalbe 700 x 40c tyres on them but the tyres just pop out from the rim when inflated. It seems to be a loose fit. Somebody please advise. Thanks...

Read more

Modern rims crack at spoke holes

Latest post 1 month ago

Recently, I was in one of the local bike shops. Someone had brought a bike back to have the back wheel re-trued. There were actually cracks in the rim, originating from the spoke holes. I have had the same problem with my bike. In past decades you could buy a bike, and the wheels were strong. With modern rims, the aluminum is getting thinner and thinner. Now the rims crack. With heavy riders, a...

Read more

Hello guys I understand cheaper regular tyres are made with a steel wire bead. But are all folding tyres made of Kevlar bead? I have just purchased a set of tyres as per attached photo and wanted to know if the bead is Kevlar. Can anybody please help? Thanks...

Read more

I bought a Tamobyke V20. Both the front and rear tire beads slide off the rim when inflating much at all. How do I get them to sit in there where they belong? Pics attached ty!!!   IMG_3164.jpeg (Size: 61.62 KB / Downloads: 51)   IMG_3173.jpeg (Size: 46.46 KB / Downloads: 50) ...

Read more

Thread busted on right pedal crank

Latest post 1 month ago

Hi Ive joined to specifically ask about a problem which may have been covered before Im sure. My right pedal broke so I had to replace it. Then had issues getting the new pedal to go on straight so I was riding with it slightly at a bend. But then it just came loose and fell off. Problem is now the thread seems busted and the pedal just slots in with no screwing needed because the hole is enlar...

Read more

Cup and cone hubs have long been considered simple, durable, easily maintained, and reliable. Having messed around with a couple of older hubs tonight, I ended up looking at my sealed-bearing hubs with increased fondness. I'm wondering what other people think. Should we old farts just accept that modern hubs with cartridge bearings are the way forward?...

Read more

Trek domane tyre

Latest post 2 months ago

Hi I have a trek domane 2.3, and I have changed the rear tyre to 28 (it was 25 originally) The tyre rubs with the brake arm (v brake), I fear it doesn’t seem to be compatible Is there any way to adjust the position of the brake arm? I just need it to ne around 2mm higher Thanks...

Read more